The Art of Tea and Conversation
At Tea Zen Teahouse in southeast Portland, Fengxia Liu provides a traditional Chinese tea ceremony steeped in history, culture, and connection.
A Bavarian-style village nestled in Washington’s Cascade Mountains, Leavenworth is known for its German fare, Christmas village—and outdoor adventures.
BY LAURA J. COLE | June 25, 2024
Yes, Leavenworth, Washington, is a tourist town.
Some have described it as “tourist trap,” and it does feel a bit like Disney World without the admission fee. The town caters to tourists, especially on weekends and during the Christmas season, when it is festooned in over half a million lights and filled with hot cocoa, gingerbread houses, carolers, and Santa.
The Bavarian theme—even adhered to by McDonalds and Starbucks in the town center—that makes Leavenworth popular was created by community leaders aiming to revive the town’s economy. In the early 1900s, Leavenworth was hit hard by the Great Depression and the rerouting of the Great Northern Railroad, which previously ran through its center. To revive the struggling town, key business owners agreed to adopt the Bavarian theme and remodel buildings at their own expense, hoping to attracting visitors and their dollars. It was known as Project Alpine and the first building was transformed in 1965. Events such as the Autumn Leaf Festival, Christmas Lighting, and Maifest soon followed, and tourists have flocked to Leavenworth ever since.
Turns out, what some criticize about Leavenworth is the very thing that saved it—and still makes it worth visiting. Here are some of my favorite summer activities both in town and in the beautiful Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest that surrounds it.
Coffee and bigfoot
If you’re driving to Leavenworth from Seattle along Highway 2, be sure to stop for coffee and the views at Espresso Chalet. It holds the title of the very first coffee stand on the highway—and was used as a filming location in the classic 1987 Sasquatch movie, Harry and The Hendersons.
What better way to enjoy a hot day than to float and swim down a cool river? Beginning in mid July, Leavenworth Outdoor Center offers two river tubing options for the whole family—pups included. We took our 25-pound dog on a 100-degree afternoon in mid-August and opted for the four-mile journey down the Icicle River. They provided the tubes (which you can tether together), life vests, and frisbees for paddles, and dropped us off up river. All we had to do was lay back and enjoy.
It’s worth noting that the river was lower at the end of the season, and there were parts where we had to get up and carry our tubes over river rocks, but there were also plenty of places where it was deep enough to jump in and swim. Either way, the water and views were spectacular.
It’s a Bavarian-themed town, so brews are in order. There are plenty of great options in town for beers and harder libations, but the ciders at Leavenworth Cider House are extra refreshing at the end of a long, hot day. They offer a large variety of ciders from dry to sweet on tap, and the majority are brewed in Washington. The flavors range from PNW classics like huckleberry and blackberry to more tropical such as guava and habanero lime. The Cider House also carries several west coast beer options, as well as a whole menu of oversized pretzels (we went for the O.G.), pizzas, sandwiches, and brats.
Considered the crown jewel of hiking in Washington, the Enchantments feature a string of striking alpine lakes. Reaching them isn’t easy. The shortest hike is roughly 7 miles with 1,400 feet in elevation gain. But the most popular is 18 miles with nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain, and winds you past the majority of the lakes the region is known for with names like Inspiration, Perfection, and Tranquil.
If you’re considering doing one of them, be sure you have a permit. They are required to hike in this area, and awarded through a lottery held by Recreation.gov.
Leavenworth has plenty of great food options and several fine dining experiences, but if I had to pick only one place to eat in the whole town, Yodelin would easily be it. The soups, rice bowls, sandwiches, and salads are chock full of the freshest ingredients, and whether you’re gluten-free, dairy-free, or a full-fledged omnivore, you can find something on the menu to make you happy. I’m still dreaming of the Cloud Nine Rice Bowl, but local friends swear by everything—especially anything with salmon—and never leave without at least a pint of their bone broth.
Every morning at 8:15 and 9:15, you can hear a traditional alpenhorn concert. Perched atop the balcony rail outside the 4th floor of The Enzian Inn, Bob Johnson or his son, Rob, play the instrument used by Alpine herdsmen and villages, to call the cows home and celebrate daily ceremonies and seasonal festivals. I stood outside one morning on Highway 2 and listened to the performance, and though free, the passing cars and trucks proved a distraction. If I had it to do again, I’d go inside the Inn and enjoy the sounds over coffee and freshly made pastries, waffles, or an omelet.
While traveling across the U.S., we decided to try the ice cream in every town we stayed in. That tradition led us to Whistelpunk—and a line of fellow ice cream lovers unspooling out the door. They’re open noon until 9 pm most days, and serve up the classics like cookies and cream, mint, and vanilla, and seasonal options, such as backyard blueberry, lemon bar, and alpine licorice. We didn’t taste one that we didn’t like.
Admittedly, the best stars in the area will be found while camping high atop the Enchantments, but it’s hardly the only option. We rented a cabin in the hills just north of town through NW Comfy Cabin, and could see the Milky Way from our deck. In fact, we happened to be there during a meteor shower, and watched shooting star after shooting star streak across the night sky. It was easily among the highlights of our weeklong stay.
At Tea Zen Teahouse in southeast Portland, Fengxia Liu provides a traditional Chinese tea ceremony steeped in history, culture, and connection.
Low tides and volunteers offer a chance to learn more about all the life teeming beneath the waves.
